Convertible top installation

Here are the highlights of my issues with their product:. These are for reference. Disassembly of the whole top cage assembly is pretty simple. Since I was removing the whole frame for rust repair and coating, I did the below. NOTE: Before removing the old top, rear curtain, or pads, there are measurements you need to take! Before removing any component of the top frame, take lots of pictures and draw diagrams. The top frame is complicated, and it is VERY easy to forget the order of assembly for the hinge areas especially.

Which way did that bushing face again? I had my top media blasted for inspection. If you can, find a blaster that uses media less harsh than sand, such as soda. I had mine sand blasted because they were the only ones in town, but there is some sand in the hinges and some pitting in the metal from the sand.

Definitely not preferred. After blasting, I sent the cage parts to a powdercoater for better protection and appearance verses paint. Powdercoat is attracted to the metal with static charge, and is much easier to get into the nooks and tight spaces than paint. Installing new tack strips is most of the work associated with the new top.

For the front, there are little metal tabs which bend to hold the tack strip in. These are usually rusted away. Alternatively, you need to use stainless steel screws or aluminum rivets to hold on the new tack strip.

This will require drilling into the front panel and through the new tack strip. Remember that this tack strip MUST be securely fastened, as the top is under a lot of tension when installed. I opted for rivets or screws every inches, and adhesive behind the tack strip as I went. Make sure to re-paint and seal areas with penetration or where you grind for waterproofing.

Use clamps to hold the tack strip down while the glue dries. An exposed screw head will wear through your installed top eventually.

Rivets are the traditional method. If the tack strip is too high, it will show a bulge in the installed top. If it is too low, it will make stapling difficult and collect water.

While the top is out, look for rust on the underside of your rear quarter panels. Look for rust holes in your trunk floor pan, and in the lower areas near the wheel wells. Also look for rust in the area where the lower trim stick meets the body. If you find any rust or issues, this is a great time to address them.

I decided to strip the trunk, repair the rust, and repaint from the rear seat frame back to the rear bumper. Pages: 1 2. Read More. Today was the first startup After completing a frame-off restoration of the Cutlass in earlier posts, its finally time Beneath these you will find plastic screw mounts that the screws were in.

With a small screwdriver, GENTLY pry these out, holding your hand over them so they don't flip out and get lost - they may be hard to replace. Continue inspecting the edge of the frame to the rear frame member, where you will find more trim strips and more fasteners that require removal.

Seek out any other areas holding the top in, such as the flap pictured fastened by pop rivets. The Cabrio also has a frame strap with plastic fasteners that are removed by gently prying apart the two halves.

Don't lose these, as they will be hard to replace. Take note where the vinyl is glued all around, from the front to the back areas. Be extra attentive before peeling the vinyl from these areas; the new top will be over-cut and you'll have to trim off excess.

It must fit exactly as you see it here or it will cause wrinkles in your top. Peel the top from these areas, and now the top should be free on the front and sides.

At this point, it will become even more apparent how thin the aged vinyl is, it's like a dead lizard skin. The next part is a bit tedious: using a small tipped screwdriver, begin removing the staples from the window frame around the inside of the window.

It's important you remove the entire staple if possible so it doesn't hang up your new installation. If the staples are rusted and break off, try gripping the remaining piece with needlenose pliers to pull it out. If you can't get it all out, make sure you tap it in or bend it flush with the edge of the window frame.

When done, you should be able to slide the top back and now it's only attached by the trim strip as shown in picture 5. Needed for this step: basic automotive tools Helper second person From the inside of the vehicle, locate and remove all the bolts holding the rear trim stick in.

Once free and loose, cover the rear of the vehicle in blankets and get your assistant to help lift out the trim stick to the rear of the vehicle. You may have to compress the trim stick a little squeeze the ends together to get it to come out. Lift the trim stick up and over the top and let it set on the top as shown.

You may find it helpful to cut the old top off of what's attached to the trim stick, but leave enough on to grip the old top in the next step. The top is held to the trim stick by a thick edge on the top that fits into a channel in the aluminum trim stick. Begin working the old top back and forth sideways to slide it out of this channel. It may be crusted up and take a bit of effort to get it out, but it's not glued in, in spite of how difficult it is to move. The rear area is probably filled with dirt and dust, take a minute to clean up the inner body area and clean off the trim stick before putting it back in.

We're ready to start putting things back together. Required for this step: pop rivets, vinyl glue provided in kit hold down cables provided in kit pop rivet gun small hammer screw gun utility knife Helper Like most auto manuals say, "installation is the reverse of removal.

They will be threaded through the headliner, usually through guide tubes. Follow your manual's instructions and replace the hold-down cables before proceeding. Slide the new top into the channel of the rear trim stick, and make sure it's centered. Lower the trim stick into the body, and have your assistant help hold it in place while you bolt it back in. Pull the top up over the front, and attach the front trim stick first.

Before putting any glue on, attach the front trim stick with a couple screws, then open and close the top to make sure everything lines up and it's not off center to one side, causing cross-wrinkles.

Put a layer of vinyl glue along the front strip, then attach the front trim. Working your way from back to front, glue the vinyl into their respective locations, and trim off the excess vinyl. Cut out little square holes where the screw fasteners go back into the frame. If you do this right, the very edge of the fasteners will overlap the vinyl where you cut it and help hold it in place. Re-attach the side-flaps, and rivet in the top where it attaches to the frame at the middle bows.

Replace all the trim sticks. When complete, you should be able to raise and lower the top with very few wrinkles. Almost done! Required for this step: Staples from kit Staple gun or pneumatic staple gun Hole punch Utility knife hammer needle nose pliers Windshield seal kit Helper This procedure should be performed with the top completely "up" and in the locked position. Cut out the center of the window with a utility knife and leave at least a two inch margin all around the window.

Beginning at the middle top, bottom, and sides, drive a single staple into the side of the window frame, just where the old ones were. DO NOT pull the vinyl tight, just snug. It will tighten up as you go around the window.

If you're using a pneumatic staple gun, this should be a single shot. If you couldn't find one to rent, the staples will be left hanging out a bit. Although this makes it a more tedious job, use a flat nosed hole punch to tap the staples all the way in. Position the punch over each "shoulder" of the staple, like pounding in a fine nail, so you have to tap in both sides of the staple. If you bend them, use pliers to take them out, these need to be all the way in and flush with the window frame.

Now repeat the process with all four corners, making sure you're not pulling any wrinkles into the top as you add staples. Add staples on either side of these so that the corners are firmly stapled in. We were able to reuse the old hardware. Scrape any old glue off the header and side rails. Check the top frame for any loose hardware or bent bows, if needed.

Correct any frame bends as delicately as possible. This is a good time to unbolt the rear bar from the car and touch up the frame and rear bar.

The install will look even better upon completion. Using an awl or a razor blade, punch small holes through the vinyl backing for the screws to attach the aluminum channel. Measure and run new webbing from the header rail to the rear bar. For accuracy, Celso refit the rear bar and top-securing handle before riveting the straps.

A neat trick is to glue a small piece of carpet backing or other thin material to the top of the rivet strap to avoid wear and accidental snagging of the top on the frame. Excess glue will be removed before the top meets the frame. Celso also puts a small piece of trunk seal on each side of the header where it could be pushed against the top cheap insurance against your new top getting hurt.

The rear bar is the key to a good install. Patience and an extra set of hands are helpful here. Apply glue to the rear bar and line up the scribe marks on the top with the holes in the rear bar.

Once the marks and holes are lined up, smooth the material onto the rear bar and work with an assistant to get rid of any creases.

Wrinkles here will definitely show later. Moving to the header bar, line up the scribe marks on the top with the bar, test-fitting as you go. Use the tabs on the side as a reference point—they should fold over and meet the side rails squarely.